

Calculate
Countertops 


Calculating Square Footage


Calculating Flooring


Calculating Cubic Yard 

Calculating
Drywall 
Square footage 
We are getting a lot of requests about how Square
Footage works, so the only room that
is add to the sale of a home is the square footage
that is under A/C. If you have a bonus room that is
finished and under A/C then you can add that room
into the total square footage of the home, Now if
you have a
non finished bonus room
or finished bonus room that is not under main house
A/C it can Not
be added to the home as square footage. If it is a closedin porch area and it is not
under main house A/C it is not part of the homes square
footage and if that screen porch does not have an
A/C duck line servicing that porch (IT IS NOT PART
OF THE TOTAL MAIN HOUSE SQ.FT.). do not let a realtor deceive you. I hope
this helps anyone looking for square footage fact.
Always
check public records for square footage this will
help you identify any
room or bonus room done with/without permit. Public
records has square footage of all homes, but they
are off sometimes by 100 to 120 per sq.ft. 
You'll Probably Be Surprised By How Square Footage Is
Actually Measured!
An inch is an inch is
an inch. Or, so you’d think. But when it comes to measuring
the square footage of a property,
it’s not quite that simple. I doubt there exists a buyer in
the entire world of real
estate who
hasn’t asked, at one time or another, what is the square
footage of a particular property. The fact is, however,
measuring the size of a home isn’t an exact science. You can
hire three different appraisers to measure the same house
and they may come up with three different measurements.
Because there are multiple ways to measure and different
mechanisms used, the physical act of measuring can be done
differently. Some appraisers will measure
square footage with a good old measuring tape,
albeit a large one. Others come equipped with those new
stateoftheart laser devices. I have been present when an
appraiser will just eyeball a difficulttomeasure space or
even do the widearm measurement. The point is, there aren’t
any universally applied standards. What does this mean for
sellers and buyers?
Read more:
http://www.businessinsider.com/youllprobablybesurprisedbyhowsquarefootageisreallymeasured201112 
Buying a Home in Thomasville, GA. or in
any other part of the country always
look at the square footage the home is
being listed for then compare that with
public records. it will save you much
heartache.
At one time or another most homeowners need to figure out the square footage of
their home, lot, or even a single room. Whether you're getting ready to sell,
just want to know how much square footage you have, or are undertaking a home
improvement project that requires you know how big any given area is, knowing
how to calculate the square footage of an area (without a square foot
calculator!), as well as the cubic feet of a space, is an important skill to
master. When
buying a new home you need add the square footage of heated and cooled area only
the garage should included.
How to
Calculate Square Footage:
If you're goal is to figure out the square footage
of your home, the process is fairly straightforward.
Of course, a webbased square foot calculator is
capable of doing it for you, but even so, this is a
good thing to know how to do on your own. It all
boils down to basic math. If you are getting ready
to sell your home, most realtors and appraisal
companies measure from the outside, and include any
area that heated and used yearround. Don't
count your garage or porches into
the equation if you're calculating Heated & Cooled
area, but other than that the basic formula includes
measuring the width and length of each story of your
home and multiplying them together. If you have a
modest home running 60 feet long by 30 feet wide,
you just need to multiply those two distances
together. 30 x 60 = 1800 square feet. Don't forget
that the only area that included in the price of a
home is the heated & cooled area. If
the home has an outdoor porch and it is not under
A/C it is not included in the homes square footage. Example
on how to calculate home price per square foot. House $269,900
/ 1733 Sq. Ft. = 155.74 per foot. This would be a
sample of an over priced home! What are you really
getting for the price? Always check with public
records. Not all but some home owners will convert
attic space or any unfinished room into living area
and not pull a permit to save money and if that
attic or unfinished room was not done with a permit
most likely it was not done right. In my area some
builders will build a home and leave a bonus room
unfinished so they can make more money by charging
the home buyer an extra $20,000 thousand for a room
that should cost no more then $4,000 to $6,000. So
if the realtors square footage does not match public
records you may have a problem......

Things You Should look out for when pricing a New Home
Square Footage.
1) New flat light switches or 50
your old switches that cost .60 cents.
2) New Square Outlets or 50yearold round
outlets? that cost .60 cents
3) Granite countertops throughout or Formica
4) Custom cabinets throughout or Standard
cabinets
5) Wired for voice, data, video &
Wireless throughout the home or Plain
old looped telephone lines.
6) Two
Cable T.V. outlet
in each room or One
cable T.V. outlet in each room. + $65.00 per
run.
7) 1  14 Seer York Energy Efficient A/C
$60/Month or A
Minimum Code 1, 2 & 3 A/C units for one home at
$400 to 500/Month bill. NOT Energy
Efficient at all.
8) ENERGY STAR Certified Home or GREENWASHING
9) 4 Year appliance warranty or None
10) Savings of more
than 40%
on utility bill or in
increase of $300 + utility bill
11) Spray
Foam Insulation or 60
year old Cellulose
Insulation
12) Tankless
Water Heater or A
home with 1, 2 & 3 60gal.
Water Heater (Always
ask how many water heaters)

Cubic Feet:
The other valuable space measurement
you're likely to run into addresses
square foot calculator. So here, you're
on your own. Still, it's not too much
different. Say you're installing an
attic fan and need to know the volume of
air in your home measured in cubic feet.
Figure out the square footage first,
then multiply that by the height of the
space as well. That 1800 square foot
home we mentioned earlier, with 8 foot
ceilings, has 14,400 cubic feet of air
to move (30 x 60 x 8 = 14,400). In
landscaping you may also run into
measurement of a cubic yard, which is
three cubic feet by three cubic feet, or
27 cubic feet (3 x 3 x 3 = 27) of
material when it's all said and done.
Square Footage Calculator:
It's good to know how to figure these
measurements out on your own, since you
won't always have a computer handy to
help you. By all means, though, if
you're in the planning phases and have
the correct measurements, a square
footage calculator can save you time.
Some square foot calculator websites
even convert your measurements into
necessary materials, saving you a lot of
time converting one to the other. Run a
quick web search and you're sure to find
a square footage calculator out there to
help you on your way.
To get a
gross idea of the square footage of an area,
multiply the length by the width. It really doesn't
matter whether you are calculating the size of your
lot or the size of your living room unless you are
trying to figure how much paint you need or how much
space you have for a vegetable garden. Then getting
a more correct number
becomes important. 
Measuring your lot:
Lots
in cities tend square, however it is by
no means uncommon for lots pie shaped or
irregular, especially when plotted
around a culdesac or defined by a
geographical feature such as a creek.
The lot dimensions should form part of
your mortgage package. When you
purchased your home, the lenders
certainly required the dimensions and
lot size so they would know precisely
what they were investing in. However,
where those property lines located issue
if your lot has not been recently
surveyed. If you don't know where your
property starts and ends, you may want
to get that information nailed down,
especially if you want to add a fence or
wall. Even the best of neighbors
mistaken about where the lot line is and
if they mow on your side of the lawn for
years, they may actually assume that
they own property that rightfully
belongs to you or vice versa.

So, assuming you know precisely where
your property lines are, and the width
of your lot is 55 feet and its depth is
110 feet (an ordinary city lot) then
your lot is 6050 square feet or just shy
of 0.14 acre (an acre being 43,560
square feet). In other words, you and
six of your closest neighbors probably
equal one acre if their lots are the
same size as yours. This is a perfectly
respectable lot size, however if your
house is a 2500 sq. ft., singlestory
ranch, your lot may feel considerably
smaller than if your home splits its
total square footage between two
stories. Such are the benefits of a
smaller footprint.

But what if your lot size is oddly shaped? How do you calculate square footage
then? Probably the simplest means is to revisit your high school geometry
lessons and break your lot into more easily calculable elements. Your lot
comprises rectangles, squares, and triangles. Even if math isn't your strong
suit, it's not too difficult to lay out a series of rectilinear shapes and
decide square footage. In the adjacent image, you can see how a series of
rectangles over an otherwise irregular shape. Where a diagonal bisects a
rectangle, the total divided by 2. All individual components
calculated, then added together to get the total.
Square footage of your
home:
Determining the actual square footage of
your home is not as straightforward as
you would expect. American National
Standards Institute (ANSI) suggests that
residential property be measured using
exterior measurements of the building at
each level. (For the purposes of
figuring a home's square footage, room
dimensions are irrelevant.) Keep in mind
that ANSI standards (which are
guidelines, not regulations) define
finished

Rectangles and triangles help determine
square footage.

spaces as any enclosed area that used year
around. Exclude any space that is not
finished or heated like the main body of the
house. Don't include the garage as part of
your home's square footage, though you would
count it when calculating its footprint on
the property itself. 
Determining the real square footage of your
home is not as straightforward as you would
expect. American National Standards
Institute (ANSI) suggests that residential
property be measured using exterior
measurements of the building at each level.
(For the purposes of figuring a home's
square footage, room dimensions are
irrelevant.) Keep in mind that ANSI
standards (which are guidelines, not
regulations) define finished spaces as any
enclosed area that used year around. Exclude
any space that is not finished or heated
like the main body of the house. Don't
include the garage as part of your home's
square footage, though you would count it
when calculating its footprint on the
property itself. 
Measure the exterior of the building at
the level of the floor. If a bump out
occurs at the floor level, include it.
If it occurs higher like a cantilevered
window with a window seat, do not
include it as part of the square
footage. Measure to the nearest inch or
1/10th of a foot as this makes
calculating room sizes more accurate. To
arrive at total square footage, multiply
width by depth. Add bump outs and
subtract indentations. Subtract
stairwells. For second floors that occur
under a gabled roof, you'll need to
measure inside.

Measuring Rooms:
There are a variety of good reasons to
measure the rooms in your home. Buying
enough paint, wallpaper, or flooring;
arranging furniture; and calculating the
type of home theater components are just
a few.
A third dimension that often comes into
play with rooms is ceiling height. Cubic
area—that is, width x length x height—is
used to calculate the size of air
conditioning units and heat pumps.
Measuring cubic feet is the same as
measuring square footage. A living room
that is 15 x 14 x 8 feet is 1,680 cubic
feet. For a room with a cathedral
ceiling, the following illustration may
help.

Calculating squares and cubes is
manageable for most of us who have
forgotten most of what we knew about the
finer points of mathematics ages ago.
Measure Twice:
"Measure twice, cut once" is an old
saying but which always holds true.
Carry it a bit farther and keep a record
of all the measurements of your home. It
is incredibly useful to know sizes and
dimensions of each window and room,
especially when new carpet is on your
short list and there is a smoking deal
over a holiday weekend at your local
carpet retailer's. It will save you the
trip home to measure or the cost of
ordering more than you need, just on
"the safe side”.


The sizing chart below
is useful to help you find your approximate central
air conditioner size requirements. This would not
be the same for a green home. 
If your A/C unit is
to big you will put to much moisture in your
house and if to small your a/c will work harder
and it will never shot off.

Another way to size
air conditioners is to decide the
system size that is currently in
place. The manufacturers do not list the air
conditioner size on the unit. The system
capacity into
the model number of the outdoor unit.
For example, model CKL241 is
a 2 ton unit. Why? There are 12,000 Btu's per
ton. The number 24 in the model number indicates
the unit is 24,000 Btu's,
divided by 12,000 Btu's per
ton, equals 2 tons.
24,000 Btu's/12,000 Btu's per
ton = 2 tons
Use the following
conversion information to decide your
existing system size (use the system model
number NOT the serial
number)

18 = 1.5 tons

24 = 2 tons

30 = 2.5 tons

36 = 3 tons

42 = 3.5 tons

48 = 4 tons

60 = 5 tons

Heating Guide
Use the lower of the two numbers if your home is well insulated and the higher number if it is older or poorly insulated. (Hint: Use the larger of the two numbers above if you're unsure of your home's insulation)
Simply multiply the proper factor above
by your home's total heated square footage to
arrive at your approximate required heating
capacity. For example, if you live in the yellow
zone, your home is well insulated, and you have
2000 heated square feet, the equation will look
like this: The
high of the ceiling is NOT included in the
square footage.
2000
square feet
X .40
heating factor (from the chart above)
80,000
Btu actual output
Then, to calculate the output on a gas furnace,
multiply its efficiency rating by its listed
input rating for the real Btu output
of heat. For example, if a furnace has a listed
input rating of 100,000 Btu's and
an efficiency rating of 80%, it will produce
100,000
Btu input
X .80
efficiency
80,000
Btu actual output
If
the same 100,000 Btu furnace has an efficiency
rating of 93% it will produce:
100,000
Btu input
X .93
efficiency
93,000
Btu actual output
For this example, using an 80% efficient furnace, the 2000 square foot home above would require a 100,000 Btu input furnace which will produce the necessary 80,000 Btu's output of heat.

What is the
right size
air conditioning system for my
house?
The old accepted estimate
is that the HVAC unit should offer 1
ton (12,000 Btu)
of air conditioning for 400 to 500
square feet of building area. However,
this rule fails to take into account how
well the home insulated,
how well it's sealed and the local
climate. In a very efficient house, 1
ton could condition 800 to 1,000 square
feet of space. Use a unit too small and
you won't cool the home. If the unit's
too big the home will be cool but the
unit won't properly dehumidify.
I would get a reputable A/C Company.
Q: What is a SEER
rating?
A: It’s
easy to think of SEER like MPG in a
vehicle. The higher the SEER rating the
more efficient the unit is, meaning less
power used. This is good for the
environment, decreases air pollution,
and greatly decreases your utility
bills. In case you’re wondering, SEER
stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency
Ratio. The minimum SEER
now required by the U.S. government is
13. Several units exceeding 23 SEER.
Q: What is the right size air conditioning
system for my house?
A:
Having the right size system is extremely important. Even one that is too large
is a big problem: It will cool your house too quickly (satisfying your
thermostat before removing sufficient moisture), leaving a humid environment and
potential mold problems. It will also cycle on and off more often decreasing
efficiency dramatically. Of course, a system that is too small simply can’t get
the job done.
Determining the size of a
system involves a lot more than matching
square footage to the right unit. Every
house is different. Factors such as
floor plan, types of walls, windows,
orientation, sunlight/shade, attic
conditions and much more affect the
required size. It is best to have an
experienced HVAC technician thoroughly
inspect your home before making any
decision on what size unit to install.
Q: Do air purifiers, like the ones for sale
in malls, work to improve indoor air
quality?
A:
Yes and no. They improve indoor air
quality, but in a very limited fashion.
The types of purifiers you find in
retail stores are extremely limited in
range. They only help the room in which
they are used as opposed to the whole
house. Even in that one room they are
far less effective in comparison to air
cleaners that are a part of your home’s
ventilation system.
Improved filter systems and air
purifiers that embedded in your heating
and air conditioning system work on all
the air that circulated through your
house. Recent technology has led to
products that are more than 100 times
more effective than standard filters.
Q:
What if my heat and AC equipment
are fairly new? Are there other ways to
increase energy efficiency?
A:
Certainly. Your home’s insulation,
ductwork, window sealing and much more
impact how often your equipment needs to
run. Improving these aspects of a home
is often called weatherization. It can
also include solar screens for windows
and new programmable thermostats.


